Just for everyone's information as of tomorrow I am going to be on my fall break with little to no internet. My schedule goes as follows:
Oct 26 - 28: Vienna and Salzburg with Jessie Jacobson
Oct 28-31: Dublin to visit Marthe, a friend of mine from camp (G.U.C.I.)
Oct 31 - Nov 4: Paris to see Laura (one of my pledge sisters), and on the 2nd, Angelica and Sarah Butzer, my two sorority sisters studying in London, will be coming to meet us.
Have a wonderful week! I can't wait to come back and share all of my fun stories and pictures with you all! xoxo
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Mamma Mia, Here We Go Again
This past Saturday marked the second time that I tried to get to Pompeii on the school trip.
Even though last time didn't work out quite as planned, this trip almost went off without a hitch. Sure, there was the 45 minutes that we sat at a rest stop while the bus driver had to remove a mental panel from underneath the bus (it was flapping around and hitting the road - can you say fire hazard?). For that 3/4 of an hour I was wondering if God was trying in some way to prevent us from going to Pompeii, but we did eventually make it!
Pompeii was everything that I expected in an extremely good way. I wasn't expecting a dazzling city, great food, or incredible people watching. But, I was expecting lots of history and that is exactly what I got.
Our tour guide was Carm (as he said "Car with an M on the end"), and man did that guy know his stuff. I f
elt as if there wasn't a question that I could ask him that he wouldn't know the answer too. I don't know if the things that I saw can really be described in a way that can be understood without actually seeing the sites. But, I will say that it is just mind blowing how well everything was preserved. I was able to see original frescoes, walk on the marble that the residents of Pompeii walked on, sit in the amphitheater that they sat in (and hear my voice echo in it too!), and see their ovens and wine bars.
One of the most interesting things that I learned about were the casts of many of the people that were killed by the carbon monoxide that was released alongside the soot and lava that faithful day when Mt. Vesuvius erupted. It was one of the
people doing the excavations who realised there were spaces left by the decomposed bodies and so they devised the technique of injecting plaster into them to perfectly recreate the forms of Vesuvius's victims. What I got to see in Pompeii were the creepily accurate forms of the residents of Pompeii's last moments before death. In some of the casts their faces are quite clear, and you can see the signs of terror - in fact, one of the casts was slightly bigger than it should have been because the victim died shaking back and forth.
Another interesting thing that Carm showed us an ancient brothel. There were erotic frescoes all over the walls.
Carm said that most likely men would come in, point to what they wanted on the wall, and, well, go about it. We were told that Pompeii was quite famous for their so-called red-light district, and when tradesmen would come into port, they would make a beeline for this location. The people in Pompeii did not speak the same language as most of their visitors, so there were phallic shaped arrows pointing them in the right direction. Lovely, right?
I'm happy that I finally was able to make it to this lovely little part of Italy. As we were getting ready to board the bus I was lucky enough to find the perfect charm to add to my charm bracelet. This part of Italy is known for making cameos, and I found one that depicted Mt. Vesuvius and a bit of Pompeii. Perfection.
Even though last time didn't work out quite as planned, this trip almost went off without a hitch. Sure, there was the 45 minutes that we sat at a rest stop while the bus driver had to remove a mental panel from underneath the bus (it was flapping around and hitting the road - can you say fire hazard?). For that 3/4 of an hour I was wondering if God was trying in some way to prevent us from going to Pompeii, but we did eventually make it!Pompeii was everything that I expected in an extremely good way. I wasn't expecting a dazzling city, great food, or incredible people watching. But, I was expecting lots of history and that is exactly what I got.
Our tour guide was Carm (as he said "Car with an M on the end"), and man did that guy know his stuff. I f
elt as if there wasn't a question that I could ask him that he wouldn't know the answer too. I don't know if the things that I saw can really be described in a way that can be understood without actually seeing the sites. But, I will say that it is just mind blowing how well everything was preserved. I was able to see original frescoes, walk on the marble that the residents of Pompeii walked on, sit in the amphitheater that they sat in (and hear my voice echo in it too!), and see their ovens and wine bars.One of the most interesting things that I learned about were the casts of many of the people that were killed by the carbon monoxide that was released alongside the soot and lava that faithful day when Mt. Vesuvius erupted. It was one of the
people doing the excavations who realised there were spaces left by the decomposed bodies and so they devised the technique of injecting plaster into them to perfectly recreate the forms of Vesuvius's victims. What I got to see in Pompeii were the creepily accurate forms of the residents of Pompeii's last moments before death. In some of the casts their faces are quite clear, and you can see the signs of terror - in fact, one of the casts was slightly bigger than it should have been because the victim died shaking back and forth.Another interesting thing that Carm showed us an ancient brothel. There were erotic frescoes all over the walls.
Carm said that most likely men would come in, point to what they wanted on the wall, and, well, go about it. We were told that Pompeii was quite famous for their so-called red-light district, and when tradesmen would come into port, they would make a beeline for this location. The people in Pompeii did not speak the same language as most of their visitors, so there were phallic shaped arrows pointing them in the right direction. Lovely, right?I'm happy that I finally was able to make it to this lovely little part of Italy. As we were getting ready to board the bus I was lucky enough to find the perfect charm to add to my charm bracelet. This part of Italy is known for making cameos, and I found one that depicted Mt. Vesuvius and a bit of Pompeii. Perfection.
Never Such Devoted Sisters
Sorry for the slacking on my part in terms of updating. It’s midterm week, and things have just been a little crazy over here on this side of the pond. I’ve been meaning to update, it is just that it normally takes me somewhere between 30 minutes and an hour and a half to write a blog post, I haven’t exactly had that time.
Last week on Tuesday, Sarah Butzer (one of my pledge sisters), came into visit f
rom London. It was her fall break, so it was the perfect time to come to Roma. Her trip over here was quite an adventure, but that isn’t my story to tell. After she spent the day at the beach with another one of our sorority sisters who is studying in Rome, I met up with the two of them at the Trevi fountain. Sarah wanted to make sure that she had a chance to throw a coin into the fountain, because the legend says that if you do that you will be sure to return to Rome. I brought Sarah back to our apartment and we sat outside on our balcony for a good hour or so just talking. Then it was time for sleep!
In the morning I had class, but Sarah wanted to see my neighborhood before she set out on her day of sightseeing. So, I took her to our open-air market that is just down the street from us. I think she enjoyed it. I love it there – seeing that many fruits and veggies in one place is just a little slice of heaven for me. After that we both had out first bite of cannoli. So good.
In the afternoon after class I met up with Sarah at the pantheon so that we could spend a few hours together, eat gelato, and go to the Spanish Steps. Sarah remembered this gelato place that she had gone to when she was here in Rome a few years ago, so we set out to find it. Oh my goodness – I think that this place (Caffe Giolitti) had the best gelato that I have had thus far in Rome. My cone consisted of chocolate, raspberry, and lemon. YUMMY!
That night I had a make up class for Art of Rome because it is too difficult to try and go see the Sistine Chapel with a class. Apparently you aren’t allowed to speak in the actual chapel, so it would be quite pointless to go there. Instead, all 4 sections of Art of Rome had to gather in the AUR auditorium at 6:30 at night for 3 hours to hear about the chapel and the Rafael rooms. All in all it was quite interesting, I was just getting antsy. I wanted to get out of there and go meet up with Sarah and Lauren one last time. I was eventually able to meet them for a drink, and then I dragged myself reluctantly back to my apartment because I had class yet again the next morning – and a quiz no less!
On Saturday once again I woke up at the crack of dawn and headed to AUR in the hopes of actually reaching Pompeii. But, that is another post. So, moving on…
When I got back on Saturday evening I was lucky enough to have yet another one of my pledge sisters, Laura, in town. Although I wasn’t able to spend quite as much time with her, it was still nice to have her here.
The first night I met her and Lauren out in one of the piazzas and spent some time with them. The night was going beautifully until I went to get back on the tram to go home and discovered that one of my wallets and my phone was missing. This is what I categorize as a “lo to
v” (or no good) situation. I don’t want to go into the details of the rest of that evening, but believe me when I say that everything turned out ok, and all was not lost.
After that crazy evening I woke up the next day with plans to meet the two girls at Bocca della Verita, or the Mouth of Truth. If you have ever seen Roman Holiday you know what I am talking about. Because I at this point had no phone, I made plans to meet them on a bridge right near the church where it is located. Yet, each of us wound up on the wrong bridge and we never were able to find each other. Finally I was able to get a nice shop keeper to let me use their phone and contact Lauren. Which was great, but by that point they had gone somewhere that I didn’t know how to get to on foot. An hour later, 2 buses and a cab later, I finally found them.
It was well worth it, because we went to San Pietro in Vincoli. This is where the chains that were supposedly used to shackle St Peter are housed. But, the more interesting thing for me was that this is the church where Michelangelo’s Moses statue is. This statue is the one that started the rumor that Jews have horns. This happened because of a mistranslation of the Hebrew word “ray (as in ray of light)” for the word horn. Good job whoever did that! You have condemned many generations of Jews to be asked where their horns are.
From there we headed to Trastevere to have dinner. Lauren said that she knew of this traditional Italian restaurant with good food. Oh, and man was it wonderful. I had fried zucchini flowers and spaghetti carbonara, two very traditional Roman dishes. When I said goodbye to them I left with a happy tummy.
I know that some people are always going to be skeptical of sororities and say that you are just paying for your friends. I don’t know how to convince them otherwise, but all I know is that I am thankful for the friends and the “family” that it has given me. I know that I am part of something that has helped to create generations of strong Jewish (and non Jewish) women. This is something to be proud of. This is all especially relevant because today is the 98th anniversary of the founding of Alpha Epsilon Phi. We are, no matter where we are in the world a part of our motto “many hearts, one purpose – multa corda, una causa.”
Last week on Tuesday, Sarah Butzer (one of my pledge sisters), came into visit f
rom London. It was her fall break, so it was the perfect time to come to Roma. Her trip over here was quite an adventure, but that isn’t my story to tell. After she spent the day at the beach with another one of our sorority sisters who is studying in Rome, I met up with the two of them at the Trevi fountain. Sarah wanted to make sure that she had a chance to throw a coin into the fountain, because the legend says that if you do that you will be sure to return to Rome. I brought Sarah back to our apartment and we sat outside on our balcony for a good hour or so just talking. Then it was time for sleep!In the morning I had class, but Sarah wanted to see my neighborhood before she set out on her day of sightseeing. So, I took her to our open-air market that is just down the street from us. I think she enjoyed it. I love it there – seeing that many fruits and veggies in one place is just a little slice of heaven for me. After that we both had out first bite of cannoli. So good.
In the afternoon after class I met up with Sarah at the pantheon so that we could spend a few hours together, eat gelato, and go to the Spanish Steps. Sarah remembered this gelato place that she had gone to when she was here in Rome a few years ago, so we set out to find it. Oh my goodness – I think that this place (Caffe Giolitti) had the best gelato that I have had thus far in Rome. My cone consisted of chocolate, raspberry, and lemon. YUMMY!
That night I had a make up class for Art of Rome because it is too difficult to try and go see the Sistine Chapel with a class. Apparently you aren’t allowed to speak in the actual chapel, so it would be quite pointless to go there. Instead, all 4 sections of Art of Rome had to gather in the AUR auditorium at 6:30 at night for 3 hours to hear about the chapel and the Rafael rooms. All in all it was quite interesting, I was just getting antsy. I wanted to get out of there and go meet up with Sarah and Lauren one last time. I was eventually able to meet them for a drink, and then I dragged myself reluctantly back to my apartment because I had class yet again the next morning – and a quiz no less!
On Saturday once again I woke up at the crack of dawn and headed to AUR in the hopes of actually reaching Pompeii. But, that is another post. So, moving on…
When I got back on Saturday evening I was lucky enough to have yet another one of my pledge sisters, Laura, in town. Although I wasn’t able to spend quite as much time with her, it was still nice to have her here.
The first night I met her and Lauren out in one of the piazzas and spent some time with them. The night was going beautifully until I went to get back on the tram to go home and discovered that one of my wallets and my phone was missing. This is what I categorize as a “lo to
v” (or no good) situation. I don’t want to go into the details of the rest of that evening, but believe me when I say that everything turned out ok, and all was not lost.After that crazy evening I woke up the next day with plans to meet the two girls at Bocca della Verita, or the Mouth of Truth. If you have ever seen Roman Holiday you know what I am talking about. Because I at this point had no phone, I made plans to meet them on a bridge right near the church where it is located. Yet, each of us wound up on the wrong bridge and we never were able to find each other. Finally I was able to get a nice shop keeper to let me use their phone and contact Lauren. Which was great, but by that point they had gone somewhere that I didn’t know how to get to on foot. An hour later, 2 buses and a cab later, I finally found them.
It was well worth it, because we went to San Pietro in Vincoli. This is where the chains that were supposedly used to shackle St Peter are housed. But, the more interesting thing for me was that this is the church where Michelangelo’s Moses statue is. This statue is the one that started the rumor that Jews have horns. This happened because of a mistranslation of the Hebrew word “ray (as in ray of light)” for the word horn. Good job whoever did that! You have condemned many generations of Jews to be asked where their horns are.
From there we headed to Trastevere to have dinner. Lauren said that she knew of this traditional Italian restaurant with good food. Oh, and man was it wonderful. I had fried zucchini flowers and spaghetti carbonara, two very traditional Roman dishes. When I said goodbye to them I left with a happy tummy.
I know that some people are always going to be skeptical of sororities and say that you are just paying for your friends. I don’t know how to convince them otherwise, but all I know is that I am thankful for the friends and the “family” that it has given me. I know that I am part of something that has helped to create generations of strong Jewish (and non Jewish) women. This is something to be proud of. This is all especially relevant because today is the 98th anniversary of the founding of Alpha Epsilon Phi. We are, no matter where we are in the world a part of our motto “many hearts, one purpose – multa corda, una causa.”
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Feels Like Home to Me
My class this morning was canceled. Believe me, I am not complaining, but it has left me with quite a bit of time on my hands that just wasn't expected. So, what do I do when I have too much time (besides putz around the kitchen and play on the internet)? I of course get to thinking - because that is just how things seem to work.
I was thinking about how much this place has become home in a strange and somewhat surreal way. No, it isn't Cincinnati, Cleveland, Chicago, or DC, or even Jerusalem - but it is a place that has somehow grown on me. I still don't fully understand the culture and I am still frequently baffled at the way things are done here in Rome and in Italy - but I like it. Sure, some days I would kill for a hamburger or even some food besides pasta - but I know as soon as I leave I am going to be craving the Italian cooking that just isn't the same back on the other side of the pond.
The other night on my way back from Florence I made the mistake of taking the local train. So, a train ride that was only supposed to be about 2 hours turned into a 3 and a half hour ordeal. The later and later it became the more antsy I became to return "home." I just wanted to climb up the stairs of Gianicolense 309 and turn that skeleton key to get inside the apartment so I could go jump into my too-low-to-the-ground Ikea bed.
Next Thursday, the semester will be half-way over (I am trying not to think abou
t it). But, my time here is limited. My job here is to go to class, do my homework, explore, and travel. I can't forget that and spend time online or sleeping when I could be out seeing a part of the city, country, or continent that I haven't had the chance to see yet. Every day I still have to pinch myself and remind myself that I really am here - and making the most of it is the only way to live la dolce vita - the sweet life.
I was thinking about how much this place has become home in a strange and somewhat surreal way. No, it isn't Cincinnati, Cleveland, Chicago, or DC, or even Jerusalem - but it is a place that has somehow grown on me. I still don't fully understand the culture and I am still frequently baffled at the way things are done here in Rome and in Italy - but I like it. Sure, some days I would kill for a hamburger or even some food besides pasta - but I know as soon as I leave I am going to be craving the Italian cooking that just isn't the same back on the other side of the pond.
The other night on my way back from Florence I made the mistake of taking the local train. So, a train ride that was only supposed to be about 2 hours turned into a 3 and a half hour ordeal. The later and later it became the more antsy I became to return "home." I just wanted to climb up the stairs of Gianicolense 309 and turn that skeleton key to get inside the apartment so I could go jump into my too-low-to-the-ground Ikea bed.
Next Thursday, the semester will be half-way over (I am trying not to think abou
t it). But, my time here is limited. My job here is to go to class, do my homework, explore, and travel. I can't forget that and spend time online or sleeping when I could be out seeing a part of the city, country, or continent that I haven't had the chance to see yet. Every day I still have to pinch myself and remind myself that I really am here - and making the most of it is the only way to live la dolce vita - the sweet life.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Now You're Stuck in a Moment
My day-trip to Florence on Saturday was far from planned. I believe that I had the idea to go sometime around 8:30 pm the night before, and I didn't fully decide to go until I was outside my apartment waiting for the H bus to take me to the train station.
I truly had no real plans for Florence. All I knew was that I wanted to see as much of the city as possible, and that I wanted to go and see Michaelangelo's David. Yet, my day turned out to be so much more exciting than just that.
When I got off the train in Florence I was still slightly groggy from my nap that I had taken on the train (in true Elyse fashion I woke up only a few moments before pulling up to the station). And, I had no real idea of where I was in the city. The only map that I had accessible was the hand drawn one from Rick Steves' Italy. As I came to find out throughout the day - Rick is good for many things, but not so much when it comes to figuring out where things are/how to get there.
I had been told that the Duomo wasn't all that far from the train station, so I picked a direction and walked in the hopes of finding it. I had no issues doing exactly that due to the noisy
tourists that were congregated outside. The humongous dome was also a dead give away that I had made it. I made a quick decision not to go inside because the line wrapped all the way around the block, but I did take the time to admire the beautiful outside - which is covered in pink, green, and white Tuscan marble.
While I was standing in the crowd taking pictures (and holding onto my purse for dear life), I realized that I needed coffee - and I probably should have had it about 10 minutes ago. My sleepiness was starting to catch up with me, and I wasn't going to let that spoil my wonderful day in Florence. On my search for a place to get coffee that wasn't going to charge me 1.50 euro for a cappuccino (it should be around 1 euro) I stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market where I found all of these little vendors selling pashminas, t-shirts, jewelery, and leather abound. I have been wanting another pashmina for myself (and they are entirely too expensive in Rome), so I bought a few - one for myself and the rest for gifts.
After caffeinating my body I set out to find the Accademia so that I could stand and admire Michelangelo's greatest and most famous sculpture. Somehow, I managed to get myself incredibly lost. I had to stop and ask for directions numerous times. The last time I stopped and asked for directions I asked 2 girls who were also toting Rick Steves' Italy guide. They had no idea where they were going either - but we wound up finding it together - and in the process I made two new friends! After finally finding it (I had walked right by it originally!!!) we only stood in line for about 45 minute
s - which wasn't too bad at all. Once we finally made it in and walked into the long hallway that David stands at the end of - I was in awe. I wish that I could accurately describe how I felt when I was in his presence, but two days later I still can't find the words.
I believe that I stood gazing up at him for well over a half an hour. I really was stuck in a moment. Michaelangelo carved him from the marble with such perfection. His muscles are so well chiseled, and each vein is viable. His eyes are mesmerizing - you just can't take your own gaze away from his. I am so thankful that I was able to see this famous piece of art. It was a dream come true in so many ways.
From there, Shelli, Danielle (my two new friends) and I headed back towards the Duomo to get some food and to rest our feet. I had my first panini that was warmed up in the microwave. I think I prefer the press - actually I know I do!
We wound up wandering around the city for a bit to try and find Shelli and Danielle their
first taste of gelato since being in Italy. How anyone can be in Italy for almost 5 days and not have had gelato yet is beyond my comprehension. During our wandering we wound up at a few of the famous sights in Florence completely by accident. the first one we came across was Porcellino - a statue of a wild boar. People rub his snout and give coins in order to ensure that they will return to Florence. The next place we stumbled upon was Ponte Vecchio, which is Florence's most famous bridge that has been traditionally lined with gold and silversmiths. I didn't buy any gold when I was there, but I finally found silver charms for my charm bracelet! I got the Florence fleur de lis and the she-wolf that is the symbol of Rome.
Also on the bridge I noticed large bundles of padlocks that all had things written on them in Italian. Later on I was reading in Rick Steves and he explained the significance of them. Apparently the bridge is a romantic spot late at night and guys demonstrate their enduring love by ceremonially taking their girlfriends here, locking a lock, and throwing the key into the River Arno. Go figure...
By this time it was about 5:15 in the afternoon, so the three of us decided that we would at least try to get into the Uffizi gallery. Previously there had been a line that we would have waited in for at least 2 hours. Yet, because it was about an hour and 15 minutes before it was supposed to close, we were able to get right in. Even though the admission was 10 euro and we only had a short period of time
in there - it was so worth it. I didn't realize this going into the museum, but this is where Botticelli's Birth of Venus is housed.
Oh. My. Goodness. I was in love. I was in awe. I think that my encounter with this famous work was made even more special because I wasn't expecting to see it. I hope that I am able to go back one day and spend more time admiring this amazing painting.
The gallery was filled with many more notable pieces of art that are world-renowned - including the only surviving Michaelangelo easel painting. This is a must see! But, in order to get the maximum amount of time, be sure to make a reservation. I would have done that if I had decided to go to Florence more than 12 hours prior to leaving.
I had dinner with Shelli and Danielle at this cute place right by the Uffizi. It was a recommendation from Rick and it is called Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori. You an get there by facing the bronze equestrian statue in Piazza della Signoria, going behind its tail into the corner and to your left. My meal consisted of a glass of red wine, a small plate of mixed crostini, and this amazing ravioli with ragu sauce. If you are looking for a good dinner in Florence, I would highly recommend this little hole-in-the-wall.
Overall, it was a great day in Florence. I am so happy that I decided to bite the bullet and just go by myself. It was a day for exploring, good food, amazing art, and new friends. Florence is a place that I want to return to one day to explore the city more throughly. But, for now I am more than content with my memories (and the blisters on my feet from walking so much).
I truly had no real plans for Florence. All I knew was that I wanted to see as much of the city as possible, and that I wanted to go and see Michaelangelo's David. Yet, my day turned out to be so much more exciting than just that.
When I got off the train in Florence I was still slightly groggy from my nap that I had taken on the train (in true Elyse fashion I woke up only a few moments before pulling up to the station). And, I had no real idea of where I was in the city. The only map that I had accessible was the hand drawn one from Rick Steves' Italy. As I came to find out throughout the day - Rick is good for many things, but not so much when it comes to figuring out where things are/how to get there.
I had been told that the Duomo wasn't all that far from the train station, so I picked a direction and walked in the hopes of finding it. I had no issues doing exactly that due to the noisy
tourists that were congregated outside. The humongous dome was also a dead give away that I had made it. I made a quick decision not to go inside because the line wrapped all the way around the block, but I did take the time to admire the beautiful outside - which is covered in pink, green, and white Tuscan marble.While I was standing in the crowd taking pictures (and holding onto my purse for dear life), I realized that I needed coffee - and I probably should have had it about 10 minutes ago. My sleepiness was starting to catch up with me, and I wasn't going to let that spoil my wonderful day in Florence. On my search for a place to get coffee that wasn't going to charge me 1.50 euro for a cappuccino (it should be around 1 euro) I stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market where I found all of these little vendors selling pashminas, t-shirts, jewelery, and leather abound. I have been wanting another pashmina for myself (and they are entirely too expensive in Rome), so I bought a few - one for myself and the rest for gifts.
After caffeinating my body I set out to find the Accademia so that I could stand and admire Michelangelo's greatest and most famous sculpture. Somehow, I managed to get myself incredibly lost. I had to stop and ask for directions numerous times. The last time I stopped and asked for directions I asked 2 girls who were also toting Rick Steves' Italy guide. They had no idea where they were going either - but we wound up finding it together - and in the process I made two new friends! After finally finding it (I had walked right by it originally!!!) we only stood in line for about 45 minute
s - which wasn't too bad at all. Once we finally made it in and walked into the long hallway that David stands at the end of - I was in awe. I wish that I could accurately describe how I felt when I was in his presence, but two days later I still can't find the words.I believe that I stood gazing up at him for well over a half an hour. I really was stuck in a moment. Michaelangelo carved him from the marble with such perfection. His muscles are so well chiseled, and each vein is viable. His eyes are mesmerizing - you just can't take your own gaze away from his. I am so thankful that I was able to see this famous piece of art. It was a dream come true in so many ways.
From there, Shelli, Danielle (my two new friends) and I headed back towards the Duomo to get some food and to rest our feet. I had my first panini that was warmed up in the microwave. I think I prefer the press - actually I know I do!
We wound up wandering around the city for a bit to try and find Shelli and Danielle their
first taste of gelato since being in Italy. How anyone can be in Italy for almost 5 days and not have had gelato yet is beyond my comprehension. During our wandering we wound up at a few of the famous sights in Florence completely by accident. the first one we came across was Porcellino - a statue of a wild boar. People rub his snout and give coins in order to ensure that they will return to Florence. The next place we stumbled upon was Ponte Vecchio, which is Florence's most famous bridge that has been traditionally lined with gold and silversmiths. I didn't buy any gold when I was there, but I finally found silver charms for my charm bracelet! I got the Florence fleur de lis and the she-wolf that is the symbol of Rome.Also on the bridge I noticed large bundles of padlocks that all had things written on them in Italian. Later on I was reading in Rick Steves and he explained the significance of them. Apparently the bridge is a romantic spot late at night and guys demonstrate their enduring love by ceremonially taking their girlfriends here, locking a lock, and throwing the key into the River Arno. Go figure...
By this time it was about 5:15 in the afternoon, so the three of us decided that we would at least try to get into the Uffizi gallery. Previously there had been a line that we would have waited in for at least 2 hours. Yet, because it was about an hour and 15 minutes before it was supposed to close, we were able to get right in. Even though the admission was 10 euro and we only had a short period of time
in there - it was so worth it. I didn't realize this going into the museum, but this is where Botticelli's Birth of Venus is housed.Oh. My. Goodness. I was in love. I was in awe. I think that my encounter with this famous work was made even more special because I wasn't expecting to see it. I hope that I am able to go back one day and spend more time admiring this amazing painting.
The gallery was filled with many more notable pieces of art that are world-renowned - including the only surviving Michaelangelo easel painting. This is a must see! But, in order to get the maximum amount of time, be sure to make a reservation. I would have done that if I had decided to go to Florence more than 12 hours prior to leaving.
I had dinner with Shelli and Danielle at this cute place right by the Uffizi. It was a recommendation from Rick and it is called Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori. You an get there by facing the bronze equestrian statue in Piazza della Signoria, going behind its tail into the corner and to your left. My meal consisted of a glass of red wine, a small plate of mixed crostini, and this amazing ravioli with ragu sauce. If you are looking for a good dinner in Florence, I would highly recommend this little hole-in-the-wall.
Overall, it was a great day in Florence. I am so happy that I decided to bite the bullet and just go by myself. It was a day for exploring, good food, amazing art, and new friends. Florence is a place that I want to return to one day to explore the city more throughly. But, for now I am more than content with my memories (and the blisters on my feet from walking so much).
Sunday, October 14, 2007
They Had Style They Had Grace
Elegance is the balance between proportion, emotion, and surprise.
- Valentino
That is Valentino's signature quote, and all of those elements of elegance certainly showed themselves when I went to the Ara Pacis on a very rainy afternoon to see "Valentino a Roma - 45 Years of Style."
It is no secret that I love and adore fashion. I don't worship trends or rules, but I do take great pleasure in looking at beautiful clothing. It is a firm belief in mine that clothes do have the potential to make people feel better about themselves. Judging from the brilliance of the 300 cou
ture ensembles, Valentino believes in the same thing that I do.The exhibit was shown as I mentioned, at the Ara Pacis. The Ara Pacis is an alter that is among the most significant evidences of art in the age of Augustus. Holding this retrospective here wasn't something that was done with haste, in fact, it was extremely deliberate. The Ara Pacis is a place that is extremely important to Romans because it reminds them of Augustus and the peace and prosperity that he brought. Hence, holding the exhibit here connects Valentino to Rome and Rome to Valentino.
I believe the my jaw was open with awe throughout my entire two hour visit. Each gown was more spectacular than the next. The amount of detail and work that goes into each gown, coat, or top is really quite incredible. Through seeing the handiwork up close, I was able to gain a new respect for the reasons why couture is so coveted (and pricey).
In the basement, underneath the actual Ara Pacis there was a display of Valentino's
sketches (starting from the 1960s!), and a breathtaking display of gowns wo
rn by famous actresses, princesses, and other personalities (i.e. Reese Witherspoon, Princess Diana, Julia Roberts, Jennifer Lopez). I have many many pictures that I took of each gown, but probably the most notable for me was a gown that Audrey Hepburn wore! She is absolutely my style icon, so seeing a piece of her clothing up close was just an amazing experience.I wish that I could tell each of you to go and see this exhibit, but alas, it closes on October 28th. Heck, I would even go back a few more time and just sit on the Ara Pacis and admire each of the gowns for as long as they would allow me. But, because that isn't possible I am just going to have to stare longly at all of the photos that I took, and maybe wish that one day I too will be lucky enough to own something as unique and as beautifully handcrafted as a Valentino original. Actually, on second thought, I just want the sketches - they last longer and paper never goes out of style.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Hurry, Get Your Cootie Shot
My bug bites by the numbers:
Right hand: 4
Left hand: 2
Tummy: 2 (one on my belly button!)
Right eyelid: 1
Neck: 1
Right leg: 4
Left leg: 3
Back: 1
Sound like fun to anyone? I wish I could tell you that it was, or that I had found some way to give myself a cootie shot to protect my poor body from being subjected to more of this pain and misery. Yet, I think that I will just have to deal with it. The tiger mosquito is apparently quite a problem here in Rome, and we have been told that there is a large campaign going to on to combat them. I guess it isn't working too well!
I don't wear perfume, I stopped eating bananas (we were told that they are attracted to that scent), and I try not to leave the windows open in our room at night when they would be tempted to fly in. I'm not even at Crane Lake! ;-) But no, these things haven't made a difference. I am still walking around itching every part of my body (and looking slightly silly while doing it).
The really cold weather doesn't appeal to me because I still want to leave my apartment when it gets to that point. Yet, I wouldn't complain about 2 days of cold in the near future to bring on a freeze that would get rid of this pesky little bug.
Anyone know where I can find anti-itching cream in Rome. Or maybe some meat tenderizer?
Right hand: 4
Left hand: 2
Tummy: 2 (one on my belly button!)
Right eyelid: 1
Neck: 1
Right leg: 4
Left leg: 3
Back: 1
Sound like fun to anyone? I wish I could tell you that it was, or that I had found some way to give myself a cootie shot to protect my poor body from being subjected to more of this pain and misery. Yet, I think that I will just have to deal with it. The tiger mosquito is apparently quite a problem here in Rome, and we have been told that there is a large campaign going to on to combat them. I guess it isn't working too well!
I don't wear perfume, I stopped eating bananas (we were told that they are attracted to that scent), and I try not to leave the windows open in our room at night when they would be tempted to fly in. I'm not even at Crane Lake! ;-) But no, these things haven't made a difference. I am still walking around itching every part of my body (and looking slightly silly while doing it).
The really cold weather doesn't appeal to me because I still want to leave my apartment when it gets to that point. Yet, I wouldn't complain about 2 days of cold in the near future to bring on a freeze that would get rid of this pesky little bug.
Anyone know where I can find anti-itching cream in Rome. Or maybe some meat tenderizer?
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Some Have Gone and Some Remain
The past two days have been wonderful – a time of good food, great wine, and incredible conversation; and this is all thanks to the one and only Adrienne Levy, and her best friend from home, Ashley.Just as a bit of background – Adrienne was NFTY Membership and Communications Vice President two years before I held the same position. So, essentially I have known Adrienne for a little bit over four years (!) - since my first summer of debauchery at Kutz way way back in 2003.
Anyway, Adrienne and Ashley just graduated college in the spring and they decided to plan a three-week romp through Europe, spending about two days in each city – and spending a lot of time on the train getting from place to place. The two of them popped into my life last night, and left me today, but it really was a great few hours with them.
Yesterday evening I met the two of them at the Pantheon because it was a nice and easy place to find. (Rome can be really confusing if you don’t have a good map, or you don’t know where you are going. A grid system is nonexistent here). I was given the honor of choosing the place where we went to dinner. My choice came right out of the guide books. It is called Cul-de-Sac, and it is the oldest wine bar in Roma. They are famous for having an incredible selection of pates, cheeses, smoked meats, and other small plate. But, what they are most well known for is having close to 4,000 different bottles of wine from Italy and beyond (the wine book looked like it was a huge frickin’ novel!). The walls are just lined with bottles - and they have this cool cherry picker thing-y that the waiters use to take down the wine.
The three of us ordered a bottle of the house red as well as a cheese, a plate of in season veggies, lasagna, and meatballs with mashed potatoes. Oh goodness. The food was out exactly what I needed – especially the meat. And although the portions weren’t heaping, they were a good size, and filled the three of us up quite nicely. We were even able to save room for desert and a bottle of the house white. Totally worth it! The nice thing about restaurants like this is that once you sit down, the table is yours – you can sit for as long as you want. It is great to feel like you have the time to sit and linger over that last glass of wine and finish your conversation without feeling like you are being rushed out.
Today after class I met up with Adrienne and Ashley again so that I could play tour guide for a bit, since they had done all the major sights before the morning. I took them to Compo di Fiori to see the reminisce of the flower market that is there every day. I also showed them around some of the back streets of Trastevere, so that they could get a better feel for the way that the Italians live.
Once their legs started to fall off, we set off on a quest to find a place where we could have some bruschetta and a glass of wine (no, I am not turning into an alcoholic – they wanted to make themselves a bit sleepy before their overnight train to Paris). The place that I had in mind was closed because it was a weird in between dinner and lunch time. So, we walked to the place a few doors down that had tables outside. We tried to order exactly what I said we originally wanted, and they told us they wouldn’t serve us because we didn’t want to have a full meal. It was SO strange. I have never had anyone be that rude to me since getting to this city over a month ago. We eventually found a place that had what we wanted, and would serve us, thank goodness. I just can’t believe that we were treated the way that we were. I was even trying my best to speak Italian to the waitress. Who knows? I guess they didn’t want our business.
Overall, I am so happy that I was able to spend this time with Adrienne and Ashley. Ashley and I discovered that our families have a lot in common, and Adrienne and I love to reminisce about old times, before we got to be old. Although I was sad to see them go, I admire what they are doing so much. I don’t think that I have the guts to pack a backpack up and go travel Europe for three weeks. But, I am glad that they did and came here! If you guys happen to be reading this, thank you for an awesome time! I hope that you will come and visit sometime this year in DC!
Monday, October 8, 2007
Sunday Morning Rain is Falling
For some odd reason, on Sunday morning I was up and about beginning around 8 AM. This was a huge surprise because I was exhausted from our non-Pompeii day trip. I had been hearing and reading lots of things about the Porta Portese market, which is this huge market that only occurs on Sunday mornings (I have been told that it is comparable to Por
tabella Market in Notting Hill). Even though all 4 of my roommates were still asleep, and Molly had gone to meet her dad and stepmom at the airport, I decided to venture to the market all on my own. I knew from what I had read that this would be an experience, but nothing could have prepared me for the actual act of going there.
First of all, many of you know that I am incredibly claustrophobic. Talk about having the issue come to light at the least convenient time! I think that I have discovered where the entire city of Rome goes on Sunday morning when all the stores and restaurants are closed - they all go to this 10 block area. Everyone is running into each other while pushing and shoving in hopes of getting the best price on that cashmere sweater of that antique that they just have to have. And this Sunday it was drizzling, so the crowd was even more fun to navigate due to all the open umbrellas!
The items that can be found in this market certainly run the gammet of things. I spent a grand total of 2 euro on an old gold skeleton key (which will be put on a chain and worn around my neck as a necklace), and a felt flower pin that reminded me of something that I bought during my first trip to Israel. Yet, these were only the two things that I decided to buy! I saw everything from bras and underwear to a mini tuxedo for an infant, to old Barbies without their heads, to wooden marionettes, to paintings, to entire booths that only sold buttons. If you were on the hunt for something - this would probably be the place to find it!
So, if you are ever in Rome on a Sunday morning, be sure to join the Romans in their quest for treasures in Porta Portese! You might just find something that could put you on antique roadshow, or make you the talk of your friends (because you bought something funny or something incredibly valuable). Or maybe, this could be the perfect place to find that white elephant gift for the winter season. Whatever your reason for going (people watching included), this is an event that should not be missed!
tabella Market in Notting Hill). Even though all 4 of my roommates were still asleep, and Molly had gone to meet her dad and stepmom at the airport, I decided to venture to the market all on my own. I knew from what I had read that this would be an experience, but nothing could have prepared me for the actual act of going there.First of all, many of you know that I am incredibly claustrophobic. Talk about having the issue come to light at the least convenient time! I think that I have discovered where the entire city of Rome goes on Sunday morning when all the stores and restaurants are closed - they all go to this 10 block area. Everyone is running into each other while pushing and shoving in hopes of getting the best price on that cashmere sweater of that antique that they just have to have. And this Sunday it was drizzling, so the crowd was even more fun to navigate due to all the open umbrellas!
The items that can be found in this market certainly run the gammet of things. I spent a grand total of 2 euro on an old gold skeleton key (which will be put on a chain and worn around my neck as a necklace), and a felt flower pin that reminded me of something that I bought during my first trip to Israel. Yet, these were only the two things that I decided to buy! I saw everything from bras and underwear to a mini tuxedo for an infant, to old Barbies without their heads, to wooden marionettes, to paintings, to entire booths that only sold buttons. If you were on the hunt for something - this would probably be the place to find it!
So, if you are ever in Rome on a Sunday morning, be sure to join the Romans in their quest for treasures in Porta Portese! You might just find something that could put you on antique roadshow, or make you the talk of your friends (because you bought something funny or something incredibly valuable). Or maybe, this could be the perfect place to find that white elephant gift for the winter season. Whatever your reason for going (people watching included), this is an event that should not be missed!
Let Us Sing This Song for the Healing of the World
Check out this very interesting perspective on the tension between all of the different religious groups that cohabit in Jerusalem and the rest of Israel. Brought to you by the letter C in honor of cheese, Brian Immerman's (the blogger's) favorite food!
Saturday, October 6, 2007
And I Think About Pompeii
Today did not turn out as expected, but in the end – it wound up being a decent day considering the considering the circumstances.My alarm woke me up at 6:00, and by 6:30 Sarah, Ali, Molly, and I were all out the door. The apartment building was still pitch black (I managed to slip down the last few stairs as a result of that), and outside you could still perfectly trace the outline of the sliver moon with your pinkie finger. Oh yes, the 4 of us were heading up to AUR so that we could catch the bus to head to Pompeii for the day.
Now, for those of you who don’t know Pompeii used to be a commercial port with a population of about 20,000. In 79 A.D. Mt. Vesuvius erupted and covered the city with about 30 feet of lava and ash. The entire city was preserved under all the muck, so this is the place to go to see what Roman life was during this time period.
But, surprise! We didn’t ever make it to Pompeii! The bus pulled away from school at 7:30AM. The ride was supposed to take about 4 hours, and we were going to have a break at a rest stop about half way through it. Great idea in theory, but alas, not all things can be planned for. When we stopped, our bus drivers received word that a truck had jack-knifed on the highway, and as a result it was shut down. The back roads that we would have had to take would have been quite difficult for the bus drivers, and it probably would have taken upwards of another 5 hours. So, there was no way that we were getting to Pompeii anytime soon. On to plan B (or maybe it was plan C, I am unsure…)
The first stop was an outlet center called The Fashion District. It wasn’t a bad way to spend 2 hours, but it wasn’t at all what I expected. When someone says outlets in Italy – I think of the big name outlets (i.e. Prada, Fendi, etc) that people talk about when they come back to the states. Nope, this place was nothing like that. It was much more like the outlets that people tend to have about an hour away from their major cities. It was a good experience, but I of course walked away with nothing. There was nothing that caught my eye, and things were overall still kind of expensive. Probably the most exciting thing that happened during those two hours was I got to pet an ELEPHANT! There was an elephant that was just kind of chillin’ next to the parking lot. It looked like people were setting up for a circus, but it was still really random.
Another 45 minutes on the bus brought us to one of the hilltop towns outside of Rome called Frescati. It is a cute little town that is well known for its villas, pork sandwiches, white wine, and cookies of three breasted women. Everything was quite wonderful, except for the cookies called the pupazze frascatane – even though they were really funny looking. They were so hard that they wouldn’t break without dropping them on the floor.
“The "pupazze frascatane", typical for their three breasts, they are simple flour, water and honey-based biscuits. The Frascati three-breasted puppet is an amusing iconographic reminiscence of the Goddess of Plenty, who had a third breast producing wine instead of milk. The third breast derived from the ancient belief that children born in the Frascati area – notorious for its wine production – were also fed wine.”When we returned back to Rome it was pouring as well as thundering and lightening. The busses were nice enough to drop us off by the tram so we wouldn’t have to walk to the 44 bus from school and then take it to the tram and then ride the tram. So, now Molly, Ali, Sarah, and I are back in the apartment in our pajamas and talking about making warm cookies. Which to me, sounds like the perfect end to this day.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
There is Life Outside Your Apartment
Things that I have learned in the past few days:
1. No child is too young to have gelato
2. Sometimes you just need to play a little Jewish geography (thank you Jessie Jacobson!)
3. Be careful when walking on sidewalks – you might just step on dog poop if you aren’t paying attention
4. Always leave earlier than you think that you need to, because you will probably get lost, or the bus won’t come for 30 minutes
5. Da Baffetto (by Piazza Navona) easily has the best pizza in Rome
6. The Colosseum is not nearly as impressive from the inside as it is from the outside
7. Finding a place to have coffee after you eat dinner is quite the feat
8. October does not mean fall in Rome, it just means more of the 85 degree heat that we have had
9. Don’t even accidentally take pictures with a flash in the Palentine museum. The guy is probably hiding behind a statue of Markus Aurelius waiting to give you a stern warning
10. iPods and sunglasses are the best way to let everyone around you know (especially that creepy guy that keeps eyeing you on the bus) that you don’t want to talk or pay attention to a single person
11. No matter where you are in the world, it is good to know that you can always count on your friends and family. I love and miss you all!
1. No child is too young to have gelato
2. Sometimes you just need to play a little Jewish geography (thank you Jessie Jacobson!)
3. Be careful when walking on sidewalks – you might just step on dog poop if you aren’t paying attention
4. Always leave earlier than you think that you need to, because you will probably get lost, or the bus won’t come for 30 minutes
5. Da Baffetto (by Piazza Navona) easily has the best pizza in Rome
6. The Colosseum is not nearly as impressive from the inside as it is from the outside
7. Finding a place to have coffee after you eat dinner is quite the feat
8. October does not mean fall in Rome, it just means more of the 85 degree heat that we have had
9. Don’t even accidentally take pictures with a flash in the Palentine museum. The guy is probably hiding behind a statue of Markus Aurelius waiting to give you a stern warning
10. iPods and sunglasses are the best way to let everyone around you know (especially that creepy guy that keeps eyeing you on the bus) that you don’t want to talk or pay attention to a single person
11. No matter where you are in the world, it is good to know that you can always count on your friends and family. I love and miss you all!
Monday, October 1, 2007
Life is Good Wild and Sweet
When Molly originally called me last weekend and asked if I wanted to go to Ischia, I said yes without even knowing what I was getting myself into. A week later I couldn’t imagine not venturing to that beautiful island off the coast of Naples in the Mediterranean.
The weekend started on Friday morning when we got to Termini to make our train reservation to Naples. For †5 each we managed to get a first class compartment. We were living the high life already! (and when I say the high life I mean that we had blinds on our window). But the ride was smooth and easy with no blips in the plan. When we got off the train I was essentially disgusted. Naples was gross and dirty. I didn’t take any pictures so I can’t give an accurate showcase of the ickiness that the city was. By the time we boarded the boat to Ischia an hour later I was beyond happy to be leaving the birthplace of pizza.
Our first experience in Ischia involved an over crowded bus that took us from one side of the island to the other. I’m not exactly sure what happened on that bus, but all I know was my claustrophobia was going nuts – I was sandwiched between a lady in awful polka-dotted pants and the ticket-validating machine. Towards the back of the bus people were yelling at each other in Italian. Who knows what it was about… When the 5 of us got off that bus I think the only word to describe us would be elated.
The Ring Hostel, the place that we stayed, was so much more than we bargained for – in a good way. When we got there to check in, we were greeted with notes on the walls fr
om all of the past guests. The notes were praising the hostel, the island, and the food among other things. It was nice to know that people loved being here, it certainly helped to put my mind at ease. We were told that every night at 8:00 guests are shuttled over to the family run restaurant that is owned by the same people that own the hostel.After spending an hour or so at the beach (and getting out all of our pent up energy out through a silly photo shoot), we headed back to the hostel to get ready for what we had yet to find out – a night that would be the best that we have had since arriving in Italy. The food was amazing (gnocchi with homemade pesto and red sauce), the company was incredible, the ride to the restaurant put any rollercoaster to shame, and the dancing – well, the dancing just topped the whole night off.
Saturday we spent a good portion of the day at Negombo, a “hydrothermal park,” which is made up of these incredible pools that are heated entirely by the thermal heat from inside the ground. The 5 of us spent the entire afternoon hopping from pool to pool to pool, each one a different temperature with something new to discover. It was just such a relaxing day all the way around – totally worth the really pruney hands and feet that I walked away with.
Overall it was another great weekend. I know that one day I am going to have to go back there and spend more time on the island and
“live like the islanders.” If anyone you know is contemplating going to Capri, suggest Ischia to them instead. We have heard that Ischia is much more charming and far less touristy. And besides, it is close enough that you could go to Capri for a day, but return to Ischia at night. I would highly recommend this beautiful island to anyone who wants good food and a relaxing vacation.to see my pictures from the weekend click here!
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